Strong Back Weak Mind

Of all the ways I could choose to fill my spare time, I’ve managed to pick some incredibly tedious, punishing yard projects. It must be from my inherited Polish virtues, a strong back and a weak mind. I intend to fill my back yard with about a meter of soil, all of which must be carted in by hand, since the house is built too close to the lot lines on the sides for even a small truck to pass. It’s an eighth of an acre back there, multiplied by a meter, which equals an ungodly amount of wheelbarrowing. In part to reduce the final amount of fill needed, the back yard will have two terraces, an upper terrace at the elevation of the house that will run in an undulating curve across the back yard from fence to fence, and a second lower terrace that will be about a meter below that. In order to contain the upper terrace, I have to build two retaining walls. The one running from one side of the yard to the other will be a dry laid stone wall. The other runs along my southerly fence. Ideally, that would be a proper column and beam, with pilings under the columns and a poured concrete wall up to the level of the concrete apron. From there it would have a about a meter of brick topped with an iron fence. The funds for a wall of that kind are about five years off if I’m really lucky. So in the meantime, since the volume of soil I’m retaining on the side there on the side of the house is not huge, I figure five or six courses of brick on a sand footing out to hold for a few years. Strictly temporary. Of course, nothing is so permanent as that which is temporary, my old boss Joe used to say. But I’m ignoring that for now.

Wobbly wall
Wobbly wall

So I’ve started on my brick wall, and I’ll be darned if the thing isn’t profoundly warped already. By that I mean, warped in all three dimensions, up-down-left-right and back to front. There is not a level brick in the whole 50′ length. Maybe a Free Mason out there would be willing to teach a Slav Digger like me some of their guild’s hidden knowledge. I don’t need the heavy gnostic stuff (they got that from the Muslims anyway), just the secret of how to make a wall that doesn’t suck.

In between bouts with the wall, I’ve been digging out chunks of concrete construction debris that are shallowly buried throughout the yard. As always, the landscape was made to cover the colossal mess left by all the other trades. The area under the future upper terrace is not important since it will be buried deep but the lower terrace will just be 3-4″ above it’s current elevation. At least the debris can be recycled into the dry stone wall.

Cangkul changkul malay hoe
Cangkul changkul malay hoe

But all the digging and prying has taken a toll on my only shovel, a short handled spade. If that breaks, I don’t know what I’ll do. Good shovels are hard to find. Shovels here are usually flimsy things not made for real work, called sekop in Bahasa Malaysia. I was lucky to find mine for six ringgit in Satok. The towkay must have been dying to get rid of it, since it was the only one in the store. So what do the poor things do without a decent shovel, you might ask yourself. Well, the principal soil working instrument around here is the cangkul, pronounced changkul, a tool resembling a brutal, outsize hoe. The cangkul is used by swinging it out in front of the body with arms extended to about shoulder height and then bringing it down to the target.

I can’t stand them.

They’re too big and heavy for actual hoeing, difficult to aim, awkward to remove the loosened soil, and to pry with them you have to push away from your body after striking. Why is it that the cangkul is the preferred tool here instead of the shovel, when the shovel is clearly, clearly a more elegant, refined and suitable tool? I believe the answer lies in the foot, or more specifically, what is on the foot. The vast majority of people who dig for a living in the cangkul belt do so in chappels, flip-flops, slippers. I’m still surprised when I see workers clambering around a construction site wearing such things. (At best they wear Adidas payak, swamp adidas, a solid molded rubber shoe, the main manufacturer of which, here in Sarawak, has a swiped Adidas logo on it.) With footwear like that, you can’t stomp down on a shovel! The shovel requires the boot – the cangkul can be operated barefoot. If you have other opinions about the origin of the cangkul, or just want to defend it against my ethnocentric shovel-loving, you may leave a comment below.

Adidas payak swamp adidas molded rubber shoes
“Adidas payak” or swamp adidas: molded rubber shoes

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The backyard saga continues in Don’t Be Fooled by the Rocks that I Got

Hau tu spik Malaysian

A billboard in Klang for the new Port.
A billboard in Klang for the new Port.
Malaysia is constantly grappling with the role of English in the country and in the Malaysian language, Bahasa Malaysia. On the one hand, fluency in English is highly prized. The government’s latest initiative to improve English skills is that Math and Science courses will now be taught in English medium. On the other hand, English vocabulary is flooding into BM, which bothers many, especially when it displaces perfectly good BM equivalents. The newest Blog on my roll is MacVaysia, an English teacher in Rawang. He writes a lot about the language situation here, BM and English and …Manglish. Here’s an excerpt of some of his thoughts on the subject:

So what’s the fuss about? Well, the people raising the alarm are concerned not about English in Malaysia, but about English in Malay. They are alarmed by the large number of English words that are in common use in the Malay language. RTM has even banned some Malay songs that contain English lyrics, and the newspapers frequently contain letters from people upset by the use of English words in Malay TV and radio broadcasts. It is true that the average conversation between Malays will likely contain several English words, or at least words that are derived from English. Here’s a very short list of some common words:… Read the whole thing here.

There’s no such thing as a pure language, as he points out. English vocabulary is half Latin. BM had equal parts Arabic and Sanskrit before the flood of English. When I first visited Malaysia, I didn’t know any BM. But between my rudimentary Arabic vocabulary and my father’s Hindi, we could decipher a good deal of what we saw. So I don’t find anything inherently wrong with English entering now. It’s just a little too rapid, and perhaps a little too eagerly adopted. I submit for your consideration this photo I took a while back while driving through Klang. It’s a billboard for the new shipping port set up to challenge Singapore. Any non-Malaysians want to hazard a guess about what it says? Yu tu ken spik Malaysian… [Click the picture for a larger image.]

KakUda is one month old

KakUda
KakUda
KakUda turned one month old today. I’ve finally gotten around to preparing a picture or two of her. The picture is already two weeks old, and at this age their faces change daily. I was gone on a work trip for 5 days, and I swear she was a new person when I came home. Now I’m leaving tomorrow to Mulu for a week of hacking through the jungle. I wonder what she’ll look like when I return. Meanwhile, KakYang is curious about the new baby in the house. She’s curious what noise KakUda’ll make if she bops her on the belly, or what her shiny eyes feel like.

KakYang is curious about the baby
KakYang is curious about the baby

The Yard: Hazards of Collecting

[dropcap]W[/dropcap]herever I go, I am always sure to bring my secatuers along. If it was only more portable, I’d probably bring a spade too. You never know when you will come across a plant for the garden. Institutional grounds are the best places to go, since they tend to have cultivated varities, and noone would miss a little cutting here or there. When I say cutting, I don’t mean chopping a tree down, I just mean clipping a twig or two off a shrub or tree. With a pair of hand pruners, there is absolutely no harm done.

 

Still, you have to be careful. Back in Michigan, my father had the cops called on him for digging a few volunteer Scotch pine seedlings out of a drainage ditch, underneath a power line on a public right-of-way. Anyone who stopped to think about it would know that within a few years’ time, right-of-way clearance crews would come down the line and cut down every last one of them. Yet, some watchful citizen, without bothering to come out of his house to ask what was going on, called the police on his neighbor. And the policeman was just as dense, chasing my father away, and warning him not to do it again. So, I know to be careful.

To make a short story long, a little while ago, when I found myself on Telekom grounds with a little time to spare, I strolled around, surreptitiously taking some cuttings of Mussaenda and Hibiscus when a watchguard barked at me (in Malay), “Hey, you there! What are you doing?”

“Oh nothing sir, just taking a few cuttings for my garden.”

“You can’t take cuttings like that”, he said in the same gruff voice, “those are [tooltip text=”kecik gilak” trigger=”hover”]ridiculously small[/tooltip]! They’ll take forever to grow! Give me those clippers. Here, ah, macam ni haa! That’s how you do it!” He cut off a stout branch about three feet long, pruned it a bit and handed it to me. Then he spun around and marched back toward his booth.

KakUda

Dear Friends and Relations, may Peace be upon you all,

Our baby was born this morning at 7:07 am April 7th Malaysian time. She is a baby girl. Her name means “radiant one”, but in the family she has the title KakUda, meaning “Fourth Daughter” and that’s what I’ll be using on the web for anonymity’s sake. The labor was short, only three hours. KakUda weighed 3.15 kg at birth. Her mother and she are both healthy and whole. I expect they will both come home tonight. Please keep them in your prayers.

Peace,

Bin Gregory

Malay Contributions to English, pt. 5

Unusual purple fruit with nerf bristles
Unusual purple fruit with nerf bristles

Though I’ve been here in Kuching over a year now, I’ve barely been outside of the city. Partly because of that, I had the impression that all the “real” nature was to be found far into the uplands. So I was very pleasantly surprised when I visited Semenggoh just a half an hour’s drive from our house. Semenggoh is a state park with an Orangutan rehabilitation center attached to it. “Apes in rehab?!”, you’re thinking, “what are they, on crack?”

Orangutans brachiating through the jungle
Orangutans brachiating through the jungle

Ahem. No, these are orangutans who have been orphaned in the wild or were illegal pets or so forth, and are now being retaught how to live in the jungle. They are fed twice a day by rangers who leave big piles of fruit on an elevated platform, and the orangutans come brachiating in out of the jungle for the free food. It was an amazing thing to see animals this way, freely moving around in their own habitat. We were on the other side of a small ravine from the feeding platform, but some of the orangutans had brachiated on over, and were literally overhead, some 20 or 30 feet up in the trees above us. They didn’t swing from vine to vine like tarzan either, they would swing to small trees which would bend over under their weight till they could grab another one. The largest male in the group, who had a black leathery face and chest and must have weighed half a ton, misjudged a tree and it bent all the way to the ground, dumping him rather ungracefully. My son and daughter had a blast, with my daughter asking me the very next day when we could go back to visit the “orang rambutan”.

Gathering food from the feeding platform
Gathering food from the feeding platform

Which brings me to our fifth Malay contribution to English: Orangutan comes from two malay words, Orang meaning man or people and hutan meaning jungle. So, people of the jungle. I have heard though that the name was only given to the creatures by the British. Maybe someone out there can confirm or deny that? There is a local Sarawakian name for them too, but I can’t remember what it is.
[Update: Orangutans are called Mawas in Malay and Kuyat locally, according to comments received below. -Ed.]

A gibbon swings around the visitor center
A gibbon swings around the visitor center

Well, we had so much fun that we went back last week, this time with my father (that would be Gregory) and uncle, who were visiting for a few days. We didn’t have as much luck though: no orangutans. But we did see a very lively gibbon, a few crocs, and an unusual tree dropping that I must conclude is a fruit but is pretty enough to be a flower. It kind of resembles the terap, except petite and decorative, so maybe it is an Artocarpus of some kind.
[Update: The fruit is Anthocephalus sp., a member of the Rubiaceae, eaten by gibbons. TQ, Iqbal.]

Kubur

[dropcap]W[/dropcap]e visited my late father-in-law’s grave on Eid al-Fitr to read Ya Sin and pray on his behalf. This is a common practice on the Eid, maybe because families are gathered together at that time. He was buried only about a kilometer from our village. The cemetery was so humble and unassuming. Graves were marked by simple posts at the head and feet. More often than not, the posts were without writing of any kind. The posts were most often carved stone, but many were fashioned of wood. Some graves were only marked by oblong stones stood on end. Families could be seen righting stones that had toppled over. The arrangement of graves was not organized in any perceptible way, except that family members were buried close to one another.

 

The landscape was similarly bare and unpretentious. Coconut palms and a single species of white flowering tree were the only intentional plantings. The tree, Ervatamia coronaria or susun kelapa, was in flower, and had littered the cemetery floor with its small whorled flowers. The austerity of the scene was striking. Truly, those resting here had left everything of this world behind. Only the prayers of their offspring remained to connect them to this world, and when those descendants forgot them, their graves would vanish as well.

Happy New Year x3

It’s been months since I last wrote, but it seems like years. Maybe that’s because we’ve entered 2004 AD, the Chinese Year of the Monkey, and, today, the year 1425 of the islamic calendar, all within two months. The first of Muharram is a public holiday in many states in Malaysia, including Sarawak, so I’m enjoying a three-day weekend. It is good timing for the family too, since Friday was my daughter KakYang‘s first birthday. I can take advantage of the lull to finally update this site.

It has been a hectic few months, for a lot of reasons. My wife survived her doctoral defense. The certificate is in the mail. It is hard to imagine that she’s finally done. She’s been working on that project for the entire length of our marriage. Now that it is over, now what?

Well, did I mention we’re expecting? Our next child is due next month, so we’ve been making frequent trips to the hospital. (Our Malaysian birth control technique was not so effective.)

I managed to secure a one-year work visa, which was no easy task, so I can transition from the Wing & Prayer(TM) fiscal model we bought our house on to one a little more grounded in reality. And my father and uncle are coming to visit in early March, so I’ve been hustling to settle my work commitments enough to take a small vacation.

We had another flood around Chinese New Year, which is exactly when it flooded last year. That flood was the worst flood to hit Kuching in 40 years. Thank God, this year it was only the worst flood since last year. Oh, wait… That Monday, I left for work and became stuck in the worst traffic jam of my life. It took me 3 hours and 20 minutes to go 5 kilometers. That is less than 1 mile per hour, my dear friends. My left leg was literally throbbing in pain from working the clutch on my rapidly aging Proton Wira. The only traffic jam that was remotely comparable was back in Detroit when a guy in a suicidal rage drove his car off the edge of the I-96 freeway down the banks into the four lanes of traffic below, hitting several other cars and killing a few people. That one was pretty bad too, though I wasn’t driving. But I have no grounds to complain really. Our house was untouched by the flood, although there were homes within a kilometer or two of us which flooded right up to the ceiling. Parts of town that did not flood even in 1963 were affected this time around.

Everyone seems to have their own theory about why the floods have been so bad, with many people blaming the Barrage, a lock on the Sarawak River. Personally I think it is all the building and land clearing in the wider catchment area. If same volume of rainfall runs off quicker than before, you’ll get higher peak volumes at the mouth, which is right where we are.

I received a number of great emails about the website over the hiatus, which I’ve been criminally slow to respond to. Thank you to everyone who has written, and forgive me if I haven’t gotten back to you yet. I hope I won’t be so long in updating again. I’ve got a number of pictures I’ve been wanting to share. As soon as I can get the bare minimum of text to accompany them, I’ll be posting them here.