Country Ghetto Palm

Ailanthus was sold in nurseries across the country as the Tree-of-Heaven for many years, before its invasive qualities were recognized.  People planted them as ornamental trees not only in the cities but out in the rural areas as well.  And so it turned out that when my parents left Detroit to get in to organic farming, they wound up on a nature center that had a grove of decades-old Ailanthus growing right in the very heart of the sanctuary.   Twenty years later, the trees have still never spread off the island!  I find it all the more amazing because they are situated in disturbed, degraded old cattle pasture.  One would think if they can spread like wildfire through disturbed and abandoned urban sites they can do the same in an old field like this one.  But no, in the country, ghetto palm behaves itself.  Maybe it was just the crisp, clear fall sun, but this grove displayed a beauty I never appreciated in Ailanthus before.

Malaysian Invasion Documentation

After ten years, I brought my entire family back to the US.  Five of us had never set foot in the motherland before.  Between the incredible length of the journey – 30 hours and three airplanes – and the slightly above average size of our family, I imagine it will be ten more before we atttempt it again.  But what a precious three weeks!

 

Di dalam kuali bertemu juga

 

Garam di laut, asam di darat

Di dalam kuali bertemu juga

Limes* from dry land, salt from the sea

In the pot may meet eventually

After ten years, I’ll finally be returning to the motherland with my whole family.  Five of my children have never set foot in the US before.  Of all the difficulties inherent in an international marriage, the constant separation from half one’s family has been by far the most difficult for us.  For five years, we endured it with her side, and now for ten we’ve endured it with mine.  But O happy day!  We fly on Monday for a one-month trip.  When next I write, it should be from Three Roods Farm. 7 children on a 36-hour voyage:  May Allah have mercy on us.

 

Asam di darat

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* Asam refers to any sour ingredient in Malay cooking, from limes to mangoes to tamarind to kelubi.

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Previous journeys to the motherland.

 

New Facility for Ma’had Tahfiz

At the beginning of this year, my daughter Kak Andak started first grade at a new religious school. It’s a private school operated by the charitable foundation of the State Mosque, specializing in Quran memorization. For the last year and a half, it had been operating in the basement of the State Mosque itself.

A few months ago, it finally moved into a custom built facility in the corner of the large civic block that is home to the State Mosque, State Library and Arboretum. It’s gorgeous! Designed with Quran study in mind, it is built looking inward, with all the classroom wings opening onto interior courtyards, and a low wall around the perimeter blocking out distraction. There is even a dormitory so that the children can nap between the Quran memorization period in the morning and the academic work in the afternoon. It looks a bit lonely at the moment, but that is because there are only first and second graders there. Next year they will add third grade and so on until the school is full.

So nice I have to say it twice

Reduplication is the name linguists give to the doubling up of words.  It doesn’t happen all that much in English, aside from making adjectives more intense, as in Star Wars (“Long long ago in a galaxy far far away”), or baby talk (dumdum, poopoo), or when apologizing to Miss Jackson (for ever-ever?).

Bahasa Malaysia, on the other hand, is the undisputed king of reduplication.  Any sort of word can be doubled, and doing so changes the word in all kinds of ways.  People learning BM run into this right away, since the reply for terima kasih (thank you) is sama-sama (same to you), from the word sama meaning same.  Like English, it can be used to intensify, so banyak (many) becomes banyak-banyak (a whole lot).  It can expand or play on the original meaning, so main means play and main-main means to fool around; orang is a person, orang-orang is a scarecrow. But reduplication can also transform words into something very very different.  Kuda means horse, but kuda-kuda is the distinctive low bent-knee starting posture for Pencak Silat.  Obor means torch, but obor-obor is a jellyfish!
It is such a common feature of the language that it is often written with a “2” for the second instance, like sama2 or kuda2.  I was sure that was a modern innovation, text-speak like LOL and GR8, until I was reading a kitab kuning in jawi and found it there too!

So what happens when a highly reduplicative language like BM starts borrowing words by the truckload from a not-very-reduplicative language like English?  You could fill a small dictionary with all the English words brought directly into Malay unchanged.  More rare are the words that are digested and reworked for local use (and I hope to post on those sooner or later).  But so far I have only come across a few English words that have been brought into BM and transformed by doubling up. Here they are:
Together-gether:  from together, obviously, but with meanings ranging from togetherness in the sense of harmony or unity, to coupling-up or cuddling.
Ileq-ileq:  from relax, but meaning more like hang out, chill, take it easy. In town now we have the Ileq-Ileq Cafe, and in fact that’s where I first heard it.  Visit them down at Taman Budaya next time you’re in the area.
Any body-body heard of any more?  Leave a comment please!

Lemang Raya

Lemang
Creamy, chewey cylinders of lemang lift easily out of the split bamboo.

Lemang is quintessential Malay holiday food, impossible to find throughout the year, impossible to avoid come Hari Raya.  Lemang is glutinous, or sticky, rice cooked in coconut milk inside a length of bamboo and roasted over an open fire.  The work involved in making it is considerable.  First, locate and chop down a giant piece of bamboo.  Giant bamboo of this sort is covered in fine hairs that are very itchy, like fiberglass insulation, so the bamboo sections need to be handled carefully and scrubbed to get the hairs off.  Then the bamboo is chopped at the joints to open up the hollow chamber.  If the rice and santan were just poured in directly, the sticky
mess would be impossible to get out neatly, so a peice of banana leaf is rolled up and slid into the chamber first.  Once the chamber is loaded, the bamboo is set upright on a bed of coconut-shell charcoal and roasted.  No surprise that most city folk don’t bother to make their own!

Luckily, living at the edge of the city in the direction of the forested uplands around Mt. Serapi, I’m a short drive from where the big lemang operators set up.  Our favorite vendor has a dozen people working the fires – that doesn’t include whoever is in the back prepping the bamboo.  He claims he sells 15,000 batang a year, with virtually all of that in the month of Shawwal.
Lemang in the bambooSpringing the lemang out of the casing isn’t so tough; after roasting over the fire, the bamboo is pretty weak and cracks open.  The mixture inside has fused into a long tube of creamy, chewy ricey-ness, and the banana-leaf lining peels away as you slice discs off.  Lemang is great with rendang or peanut sauce, or if you are a seven-year-old of my household, pretty good for munching as is, too.
Enjoy your lemang everybody! Selamat Hari Raya // Eid Mubarak.
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Brotherly Love

Two of my three amazing and talented sisters visited me a few months back.  To get here they had to layover in Jeddah for 8 hours.  I was worried sick they'd get harrassed by the Mutaween or just have an icky time in general and was working on my "we think they're crazy too" speech.  Turns out it's just like any other international airport, according to them, except more boring.  With little to do and eight hours to kill, they picked up a local newspaper and discovered an awkward and disturbing ode from an 8th grade girl to another big brother named Zayn:

Who was aged five when I was born

Who hid my toys and broke my dolls

Who avoids me at school all day

Who tolerates my teenage years in every way!

Who makes me laugh only once a year

But makes me cry every single day!

Who beats me for no reason

Who fights with me for every reason!

Who feels happy when he intercedes

Who feels sad when he has to cede!

He loves me the most anyways

He's my brother Zain, the best in every way!